Dartmoor waterfall trails where you can bring a baby

Dartmoor National Park, protected since 1951, is home to some of England’s most beautiful waterfalls. We visited the park in mid-September over a one weekend trip to Torquay, so we had to be selective in where we spent our tiny amount of time. We couldn’t just pick one Dartmoor waterfall to visit, so decided to start with Canonteign Falls, then spend some time in Lydford Gorge the next day.

Canonteign Falls

We pulled up into car park, parked for free, then walked down the slope to the entrance. Entry is through the gift shop, where you buy tickets at the desk on the left of the doorway. There were a few Covid rules we were advised of before entry, but were soon on our way. V was tucked into a backpack carrier for our trek, so we were desperate to get to walking.

Once we exited the gift shop/café building, we were presented with a pretty courtyard style location, beside the lake. There was a grand gazebo, which we suspected was used for weddings, and a couple of fountains to add to the ambiance. The walk around the lake is suitable for prams and wheelchairs – you wouldn’t come across any of the waterfalls, but there are waterfowl, small buildings, and country structures to pique visitors’ interest.

We were in Dartmoor to see a waterfall though, so we followed the pathway around one side of the lake towards the forested area ahead. A small bridge over the stream is the route up to the main waterfall, but if you pass on that for a moment and continue up the path, you reach Clampitt Falls.

Clampitt Falls

Clampitt Falls are not particularly large, nor majestic, but I liked the way the water flows over the rocks as hits the stream below. Unfortunately, there isn’t really anywhere to sit and enjoy them close up, so we backtracked to the mini bridge and continued on our hike.

Lady Exmouth Falls

Following the path takes you on an ascent through woodlands, leading to the top of Clampitt Falls, where there is a pool which was inhabited by a few ducks on the day we visited. We continued along the path beside the water, tackling the odd step that led us upwards, until we were surrounded by ferns and stood on a bridge at the foot of Lady Exmouth Falls, the tallest waterfall in England. I’ll be honest, the height was surprising and V was obsessed – she couldn’t take her eyes off it. I’m not sure if it was the sheer size of the falls, or the sound of the water crashing into the pool near us – just out of view – but it mesmerised her.

The path then leads you round to the right of Lady Exmouth, through a ‘secret garden’ with caves and minor falls, and on to the Victorian steps which were uncovered in the 1980s. Sense of ancient earthly magic that the south west of England has.

We reached the top of the site to find a fern garden. They say that ferns are where fairies are born, so Canonteign Falls have installed a collection of wire fairy sculptures to add to the magic. There is also a rather terrifying creature hidden amongst the ferns, so search towards the far end of the garden to find it if you’re brave enough.

Still with some way to go before we made it to the top of our first Dartmoor waterfall, we crossed a bridge that stretches over the site of the natural falls. Ahead, the water of the man-made falls rushes from right to left, leaving through a cave to emerge at the viewpoint.

And what a viewpoint it is! You can see for miles across the Dartmoor countryside.

After a water break, mini photoshoot, and a breather, we started to make our way back down. We intended to do the full walk, and explore the interesting installations, play area, and lower lakes, but V was getting a bit unsettled in her backpack carrier.

Lydford Gorge

The following morning we went out in search of some more of Dartmoor’s waterfalls. I had to put my National Trust membership to good use, so we got up early and drove to the western side of the national park, to the tiny village of Lydford.

Lydford Gorge is the deepest gorge in the south west of England, and it was definitely a degree or so cooler than our accommodation in Exeter. We parked up in the entrance nearest Lydford village, which we discovered was the first of two entrances to the gorge. This entrance was the start of a 3 mile river walk. V was in her backpack, and it had rained overnight so the route was likely to be slippery. The assistant suggested that it was probably not suitable for babies or young children.

Related: The ideal Exeter accommodation: River Retreat Apartment

Instead, we jumped back in the car to drive a mile or so up the road. We parked up in another NT car park, this one significantly smaller. There was a kiosk building, housing toilets and the admission desk, beside the entrance gate. We were given a map, and realised that our starting point was actually quite close to the top of the waterfall; we could hear it, but couldn’t see it.

The descent into the valley is actually quite steep. V was bouncing around all over the place and the path was slightly muddy, so I was a little concerned that she and Dan would suddenly slip, but they didn’t.

Once we reached the bottom, we walked along a wide, designated path, next to the river. At some parts the ground is so low that you could walk straight into the river – I’m sure people do get in on a hot day. Dogs were leaping in and out of the water on a chilly September morning. Part way along the path stumbled across a cave, a remnant of Devon’s mining history. The gate across the entrance kept visitors out, but I imagine bats and all sorts live in there.

White Lady Waterfall

In the distance, we could see a bridge crossing over the river, and could hear the rush of a waterfall, but couldn’t see it. The waterfall was actually tucked round to the right of the bridge. It’s not as magnificent as Lady Exmouth, but still pretty. You’re able to stand right at the foot of the waterfall, and were it a warmer, drier day, I imagine people would have taken a dip in the pool.

In minutes, the area was swarming with Sunday morning walkers. Clearly, Lydford Gorge is a popular spot, so we felt pretty chuffed that we had got to the site for its opening time.

I was actually so surprised by the national park; I have no idea why I expected any less than we saw. Hopefully, we’ll get back to Dartmoor some time in the future to see the another waterfall in the area, and perhaps next time, V will be the one leading the way!

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